Fashion comes and goes in cycles but there are elements from the late 80s and 90s that have lingered throughout. Think baggies, think low slung, think elements of grunge and goth that have translated through various ins and outs of what’s trendy.
However, said The Fix buyer Ashwin Willemse, the big comeback of the nineties this year runs deeper than just silhouettes and retro references. It is a response to a crazy, mad world and the pressures people feel every moment.
Now, he said, clothing has become less peacocking and far more focused on comfort without giving up style, but adding a solid whack of authenticity.
Anti-fashion, anti-fit
It’s a daily pursuit in wardrobing.
“What we are seeing is a strong return to baggy T-shirts, loose denim and heavy sportswear influences like windbreakers,” Willemse said. “There is almost an anti-fashion, anti-fit attitude coming through, with silhouettes becoming more oversized and relaxed.”
It is not just one look dominating though either, he said.
“What makes this moment interesting is the way opposing ideas are sitting comfortably next to each other. On the one hand there is the oversized, almost defiant silhouette, and on the other a stripped-back, minimal approach that also draws from the same era.
In the 90s, minimalism was a major influence, with Calvin Klein leading that space,” he said. “That aesthetic is returning now, but in a more relaxed, everyday form.”
The result is a look that does not make big noise but holds its own. “Clothing is becoming more shapeless again, allowing the body itself to stand out rather than the garment,” Willemse said.
Thrifting continues to thrive
Stripping things back feeds into why the 90s, and particularly its grunge roots, are finding favour again.
“The grunge movement was rooted in anti-establishment thinking and a rejection of commercial fashion, which is why thrifting and DIY are so important right now,” he said. “The current rise in pre-loved clothing is tied to that same rejection of algorithm-driven trends.”
There is a certain honesty in worn denim and repurposed pieces that feels far removed from polished influencer culture, said Willemse.
“People are far less concerned about wearing second-hand clothing now,” he said. “In fact, they are drawn to it because it feels more authentic and naturally worn in.”
Comfort is the kismet. “When the world feels overwhelming, people naturally seek comfort, and that extends to what they wear,” Willemse said.
“They are choosing fabrics that feel good against the skin. There is a strong focus on plush and textured knits at the moment, with faux fur and shaggy finishes becoming very popular,” he said. “These are fabrics that feel warm and substantial, which adds to that sense of comfort.”
And then there is denim, which has returned with intent rather than nostalgia.
“If there is one item that stands out right now, it is baggy-fit denim,” Willemse said.
Whether worn high on the waist for shape or slung low in true 90s fashion, it is less about rules and more about attitude.
“In uncertain times, people tend to gravitate towards nostalgia,” Willemse said. “There is a growing desire to disconnect from the digital world.”
